Monday 22 December 2008

Happy Christmas!!




A rather strange medium, but the best way to wish all of our friends and family a wonderful Christmas time and (for those of you in northern Europe) warmest mid-winter wishes.

Pic 1 shows life just outside the fort at Cape Coast. It is hard to believe that only 200 years ago slaves were being led down those very steps (now a mass of colour and life) to work in the colonies - many passing through Bristol's docks. The fort is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a very sobering place to visit.

Further along the coast we have found ourselves the perfect place to spend Christmas - a stetch of palm lined beach in southern Ghana [www.greenturtlelodge.com & pics 2+3]. Many other overlanders we have met along the way are also converging here so rest assured, we'll be in good company!

Saturday 13 December 2008

Reflections on Guinea




Neither Sanna nor I knew much of this country other than it was mountainous and had given the world great musicians such as Mory Kante and Bembeya Jazz!
Our revised entry route from southeast Senegal proved to be the most challenging yet. There was no problem with the border procedures - the officials (obviously surprised to have visitors) were extremely helpful and friendly once we had awoken them. However, the road (clearly marked on our map) was no such thing. After climbing the boulder strewn ascent to 1000 metres, the route quickly deteriorated as years of heavy rains and even heavier trucks left their marks. When we did manage to take our eyes off the road we were repeatedly awed by the spectacular scenery of the Fouta Djalon [photo 1].
Once we did reach tarmac (of sorts) all traffic seemed to be heading in the same direction as us - towards Kankan, Guinea's most religious town. As there is hardly any public transport in Guinea, and vehicles are few and far between, those that were travelling were packed with everything bar the kitchen sink! [photo 2 - yes, they are motorbikes!].
The following weekend was Tabaski: hugely important 3 day family celebration in the Islamic calender where each family is expected to slaughter a sheep. In Kankan we were privileged to be invited to witness one extended family's slaughter of two bulls by the head of the family [photo 3].

We found the Guineans to be the most friendly, hospitable and generous people so far. Where else in the world would a hotel manager offer you a free room for the night because "we were guests in his country"?
From Guinea we are passing through Mali and Burkina Faso on the way towards Ghana's beaches for Christmas.

Tuesday 2 December 2008

Failed Coup Changes Plans



Looking out to sea from Cap Skiring (Senegal's southern remote beaches) a lone frigate patrols the horizon. Just 12km away lies the border with Guinea Bissau, now recovering following a failed coup d'etat by members of the armed forces last weekend. The President survived but the usual civil unrest followed and many non domicile residents evacuated. This is particularly sad for the country - one of West Africa's poorest - as its people have been slowly recovering from the civil war 10 years previously.

This news meant out with the maps again and a re-think of our route as we were due to cross the border within the next two days. We decided to head east through Senegal visiting Niokolo Koba National Park (pic. 1) and Bassari country (pic. 2) before cossing into the Guinean mountains thus bypassing Guinea Bissau.