Saturday 13 December 2008

Reflections on Guinea




Neither Sanna nor I knew much of this country other than it was mountainous and had given the world great musicians such as Mory Kante and Bembeya Jazz!
Our revised entry route from southeast Senegal proved to be the most challenging yet. There was no problem with the border procedures - the officials (obviously surprised to have visitors) were extremely helpful and friendly once we had awoken them. However, the road (clearly marked on our map) was no such thing. After climbing the boulder strewn ascent to 1000 metres, the route quickly deteriorated as years of heavy rains and even heavier trucks left their marks. When we did manage to take our eyes off the road we were repeatedly awed by the spectacular scenery of the Fouta Djalon [photo 1].
Once we did reach tarmac (of sorts) all traffic seemed to be heading in the same direction as us - towards Kankan, Guinea's most religious town. As there is hardly any public transport in Guinea, and vehicles are few and far between, those that were travelling were packed with everything bar the kitchen sink! [photo 2 - yes, they are motorbikes!].
The following weekend was Tabaski: hugely important 3 day family celebration in the Islamic calender where each family is expected to slaughter a sheep. In Kankan we were privileged to be invited to witness one extended family's slaughter of two bulls by the head of the family [photo 3].

We found the Guineans to be the most friendly, hospitable and generous people so far. Where else in the world would a hotel manager offer you a free room for the night because "we were guests in his country"?
From Guinea we are passing through Mali and Burkina Faso on the way towards Ghana's beaches for Christmas.

2 comments:

Simon and Eleanor said...

Glad to see Jemima seems to be surviving the rigours of the journey okay!
Hope you have a peaceful Christmas - relaxing on the beach sounds good.
love Eleanor & Simon

Nate said...

Wonderful to meet you in Labe! Conakry was hot and often without power but, as you point out, absolutely filled with warm and welcoming people. Good luck on the trek down to Ghana, have a wonderful Christmas, and I look forward to seeing your posts as you round out the voyage.
Best,
Nate Carpenter (USA)